Tuesday, May 26, 2009

The Start of Summer...

Having spent 3 weekends in the UK in the last month...my blog has suffered. However here is a little update...
The Mille Milgia passed through Verona, and it was an absolute blast, fast cars, beautiful city and ultimately a race!
We started at Castel Vecchio ponte which they opened for the evening to drive over, then under Porto Borsari, through Piazza Erbe and then a final dash through Piazza Bra. There was so much chrome whizzing through Verona I didn't know which way to look first. Although Verona seemed to me to be a perfect city to race through, I have a feeling the cobbles paid havoc with the low suspensions and and the odd wing which seemed to come loose!
A whole weekend spent in Verona treating myself to breakfast sat out on the piazza. Looking forward to more weekends in Verona especially now summer seems to have arrived this week, I luckily escaped the heatwave at the weekend a cool 40° I was enjoying the subtle warm days of Spring at home in Somerset.

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Southern delights...




          Puglia the 'heel' of Italy is where I was lucky enough to spend last weekend...having never been to Southern Italy I didn't really know what to expect,  I knew that it would be in contrast to what up until this point I considered Italy, and I was not left disappointed. The South of Italy is off the beaten track and will challenge your concept of what modern Italy is.
We spent the afternoon wandering through Bari Vecchia a labyrinth of narrow alleys which smelt more like a laundry than a city, clean linens hanging from every balcony, I definitely felt like a visitor to a life of a city that felt uninterrupted by anyone else...kids playing football in every open space goals made out of 18th century doors, orecchiette pasta freshly made drying on the nearest chair or window sill.  I would sneak a peek into their private homes and see Padre Pio staring back at me.

       Out of season beach resorts hold a special place for me, I think coming from my childhood and adult trips to Devon. Driving along the south west coast of Puglia passing through the remnants of last summers holiday makers and enjoying the empty beaches with crystal clear waters you will arrive at Marina di Leuca where the Ionian meets the Adriatic Sea.
Southwest of Bari is the Valle d'Itria: Trulli country, these picturesque 16th century circular whitewashed houses are trulli unique to Puglia, I was half expecting to see Frodo Baggins to walk out at any minute.
As always food featured heavily on my trip, I made sure I made the most of the fresh seafood on offer. Although a highlight was actually a hot sausage bombette sandwich I enjoyed in Alberobello amongst the hobbits...

'that other world...which no-one may enter without a magic key' Carlo Levi

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Liguria & Salsa di Noci!


This Easter weekend  I was fortunate enough to spend it in Liguria. Having decided Thursday morning to take Friday off and head down to Liguria for some much needed relaxation and sunshine, and what better way to spend it than in the company of wonderful people.
This part of the coastline is so breathtakingly beautiful, it makes you relax without any effort or thought. Friday morning was spent in Chiavari, breakfast and a stroll through the market, picking up some flowers for the table.With the obligatory stops for coffee & aperitivo's along the way. Portofino being the obvious stop for an evening stroll and a nose at how the other half live.A day in Genova, enjoying the sights and sounds of this gritty city, it was refreshing to be in a city not so perfect and twee.A chilled evening with fresh trofie pasta with pesto and pansotti pasta with salsa di noci. Liguria is famous for it's Pesto, but this other cold pasta sauce is now a firm favorite with me. 






Friday, March 20, 2009

Giappone


I know this is my Italian blog but as my trip to Tokyo started in Italy and I ate Japanese food in Verona at Ikai the night before departing....
With a 12 hour flight behind us and another one only 2 and half days away, 2 things were a priority...shopping and food!
This was my 3rd trip to Tokyo, and I was determined to eat as much Japanese food as possible...I only really failed on the breakfast front, but a great breakfast is almost impossible to find in Verona except for 'Cucina di Faye' I allowed myself this western indulgence. I had so much fun trying the delights that various restaurants had to offer...a couple of the highlights: Tofu Cheesecake, Egg Custard Soup (Chawan Mushi) and Tonkatsu....yummy!

Wednesday, March 11, 2009

Still life...



Moving to a new country where you don't speak the language or have any idea of neighbourhoods, the task of finding an apartment can be a little daunting, especially, and this is a broad statement...people here in Verona have no idea what it's like to move to a new city let alone a new country...
So if in doubt...head for the centre. I don't know if it was more by luck than judgement that I ended up in my apartment. It is centrally located, with the 2 things that featured on my when living in Italy list...1. Shutters 2. Balcony. Would I choose this one again a year down the line...probably not - but now it's my home and continues to feel more like it.

Brion-Vega Cemetery

This is one of my favorite places I've visited since living in Italy...it's an absolute treat to be able to wander through this cemetery and unlike if in the UK or USA is completely free and feels a little undiscovered a place of solitude and calm.
Designed by Carlo Scarpa for Brion-Vega as an extension to the existing family cemetery. The architect developed the geometrical concrete composition over a 1o year period, with it's final completion in 1978...the year that Scarpa was also buried there.

Monday, March 9, 2009

Seeing Parma...

Fashion, architecture, food.



Having never visited Parma the only real reference I had was John Grishams 'Playing for Pizza' and the fact that Parma Ham and Parmesan Cheese is from there...so the plan: eat ham & cheese then find American football...??
It was glorious blue sky & sunshine all day, which has already put Spring in my step.
We spent the morning at my first antiques fair in Italy - it was huge! Holding back on the temptation to buy more stuff I didn't need, I came home with only one little brown bag.

First stop once we got into Parma...ice cream! We hopped, skipped & jumped into Chocolat Milano in Piazza Della Steccata. 2 scoops 1 Crema & 1 Fior di latte for me - Delicious!
This is where I saw 'women in red shoes' who was absolutely amazing, I'm so chuffed I got this photo and with the cigarette, which she'd just lit. She is everything that an Italian women should be on a Sunday afternoon.

Days like these spent with wonderful people have been few and far between for me in my first year in Italy, but when they do come along they really are what makes living in Italy a fantastic experience.