Puglia the 'heel' of Italy is where I was lucky enough to spend last weekend...having never been to Southern Italy I didn't really know what to expect, I knew that it would be in contrast to what up until this point I considered Italy, and I was not left disappointed. The South of Italy is off the beaten track and will challenge your concept of what modern Italy is.
We spent the afternoon wandering through Bari Vecchia a labyrinth of narrow alleys which smelt more like a laundry than a city, clean linens hanging from every balcony, I definitely felt like a visitor to a life of a city that felt uninterrupted by anyone else...kids playing football in every open space goals made out of 18th century doors, orecchiette pasta freshly made drying on the nearest chair or window sill. I would sneak a peek into their private homes and see Padre Pio staring back at me.
Out of season beach resorts hold a special place for me, I think coming from my childhood and adult trips to Devon. Driving along the south west coast of Puglia passing through the remnants of last summers holiday makers and enjoying the empty beaches with crystal clear waters you will arrive at Marina di Leuca where the Ionian meets the Adriatic Sea.
Southwest of Bari is the Valle d'Itria: Trulli country, these picturesque 16th century circular whitewashed houses are trulli unique to Puglia, I was half expecting to see Frodo Baggins to walk out at any minute.
As always food featured heavily on my trip, I made sure I made the most of the fresh seafood on offer. Although a highlight was actually a hot sausage bombette sandwich I enjoyed in Alberobello amongst the hobbits...
'that other world...which no-one may enter without a magic key' Carlo Levi
